Suraiya Appa, as she is fondly called, welcomes you into her weaving unit located a few kilometers from the bustle of Hyderabad proper. The looms are focused on the revival of Persian brocades, specifically; Mashru , Himroo, Jamavar and Paithani. We met the soft spoken octogenarian who has worked with Pierre Cardin, Hanae Mori and Fabindia to learn more about her work.

The beginning This unit started in 1985, after my husband passed away. I had worked with the government on textiles prior to moving here. We started by setting up a small Himroo unit with two retired weavers and one loom. Slowly, we started employing widows as the men didn’t want to leave their homes to work here.

Today We have about sixteen weavers, two on each loom.  The English-medium school we built next door educates 600 students and the women who work here educate their children for free.

If you are working with a weaver of craftsmen, you have to solve their problem first

On weaving We create our own designs in house and have a few books of samples that we are able to replicate from. Making a graft of thread for the loom takes many weeks – it is very time consuming. It can range between fifteen threads to 5000, depending how complicated the design is. If you miss one line, somewhere the design will be wrong. Two ladies on one loom can then weave no more than three inches per day, perhaps four, if it’s a simple design. The price range is Rs 1500-2500/- per meter. We are also involved with Kalamkari although Hyderabad’s water does not suit the dyeing process. It has to be created using saline ocean water and dried on sand,  this complicated process with the natural elements  are done in Machlipatnam.

One must make sure the finishing is correct. If you make a straight line – it should be a straight line. You must control the quality.

The future: Everything is deteriorating. Weavers want much higher wages as the standard of living has gone up. Their children are going to school and are not involved in weaving unless they are poor in studies or physically weak. Most of the children are  earning much more than weaving ever will. There is little incentive to work as a weaver. It is very unfortunate but we have to face the facts of life. I feel, it will slower deteriorate and come to an end. I don’t see otherwise. The tough life weavers had, their children don’t have … I am speaking of weavers in Andhra Pradesh. I feel that in a couple of years, craft will die in this state.

I am fortunate that my cousin, Dominic, is able to take over what we have built. He is passionate about this craft. Whatever position one holds, they should be completely capable of it.

Above: Suraiya Hassan Bose

Above: Safrani Memorial High School

Above: Zari (gold thread)

Above: Weaving bobbin

Above: Paithani sari border with zari

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Above: Jamawar weaving for a grooms sherwani