An edited excerpt:

You grew up in an army family with a Mother who made children’s clothes.  How did your upbringing influence your approach to design?

Dad was in the army and  I consider it as extremely fortunate because it gave me a chance to see different parts of this country through my growing up years.  I was born in Jodhpur. From there we went to Pune, Lucknow and Chandigarh. My mother, though she was a housewife,  loved making kid’s clothes. She loved creating kid’s ‘Barbie’ clothes with a lot of embroidery. The embroidery was centered around french knots and smocking. And as I look back now, what I really love doing is occasion clothes for women and men, and I love embroidery. So perhaps there is some sort of rubbing off that happened. Also, I think there is a genetic thing in the family because my brother, TJ, who works with me he has been a creative influence. He left the army and we started this brand together. In the NDA (the National Defense Academy), he was the best cartoonist — making very elaborate ones. Also, my mother’s first cousin, Parmesh Godrej was a very accomplished interior designer in Mumbai. She used to do fabulous interiors. I think in some way there’s creativity lurking around in our DNA.

If you create something from the soul – you create divinity itself

What else about can you tell us about an army upbringing, besides being fortunate enough to travel around?

By the time I was a kid both my brothers were much older — one is eight years older and the other, eleven. By that time my father had reached senior positions in the army —  ever since I can remember we lived in the fanciest of homes, very large homes set in several acres. It was really just incredible. I never really saw the tough side of army life,  which is also there. Earlier in their careers, they go to field areas where families are not allowed,  but by the time I got around we were living in these nice large homes. It was a very good life. I think all that maybe stuck the pieces together. The whole DNA of what I am today.

You were married in 1997, years into your design career.  As someone who creates a fantasy wedding environment for others, what was it like as a groom, fiancé and designer? Were you very involved in that process?

Not really! [laughs].  I think I was working up until a few hours before getting married. There was something big happening at the time work wise as well. I forget what it was now. It was something that I lost time for. Our clothes… is all just flowed.

What was it like, designing for your bride ?

She was new to the city let, alone the culture. For her it was a pleasure,  of course. She pretty much trusted me to do everything  — and obviously she has to trust me!  That’s why I do what I do. And it all turned out really well. In fact, the pictures of the wedding came out all over the media and we ended up doing two or three orders of the very same lengha because everybody loved it so much.

And is there anything that you can recall, as you were designing for her that you wanted to transmit?

The underlying principal of mine has always been royalty — and how can you, for that one day, transport yourself to another zone. At this point of time we also have two girls – one is fifteen and the other is five… so I sometimes think of when they get married.  I’m not sure who they’ll get married to – whether or not it will even be an Indian wedding,  but it’ll be nice to make my daughters look their resplendent best.  That’s something which I suppose is every fathers dream — to have them look and feel special on their wedding day. I know the feeling because sometimes in our couture appointments the whole family is there and it’s a very touching moment.

I’ve always believed that in our past lies our future – it’s an undying belief in me

What is that overriding emotion, that you are privy to in those moments?

I’ve always believed the process of design and creation, at some point of time, is beyond a functionality and there is huge involvement of the spirit. At that time I have only enhanced the look and feel of the bride and groom and added to their their joy. To be able to feel you have given joy to that moment is a great feeling.

That must never get old…

It doesn’t. In fact, recently I had the most amazing experience —  a friend of mine reminded me that I had made her wedding clothes. I had totally forgotten. She said she wanted them fixed for her daughter to wear at an event. It was quite overwhelming to see them pull out these pieces that are nineteen years old  and still in mint condition. Her daughter got into the very same clothes and the only few things we had to change were  perhaps some trims and beads. The fit was about the same. And the clothes looked as if they belonged to her. It’s like I said earlier,  to be able to create an element of timelessness in a world which  is ever changing… to be able to do that and almost twenty years later see another generation wearing it – it’s quite special.

Adornment upgrades the body and spirit – it’s in our DNA

Speaking of which,  the brand name ‘JJ Valaya’ itself was a conscious shift towards building a classic brand name. Can you tell us how Jagsharan Jeet Singh Ahluwalia became JJ Valaya?

It happened at design school.  I was clear upon graduation that I would down my own thing, which was a akin to harakiri because no one was doing that.  In design school, I was young and dreamt about what my brand would look like. Even our coat of arms and crest was born at NIFT Delhi. I thought if I went with my original name, it was not going to fit on a label – and it sounded strange for the brand. Aluwalias become Walias more often than not.. so I tweaked Walia into Valaya!

You mentioned ‘the future of the past’ a lot.  What are your hopes on the women you dress today – years intro the future?

I’ve never really never believed in predictions because I am a man of the moment, I believe we must let the mystery of the future remain alive. I think the cardinal rule of life is that everything changes. I believe the past will be embraced much more in the future and  suddenly people will realize they are letting go of something that was so special. People will realize they are surrounded by gadgets and gizmos and electronics. They will realize the value of something special. By that time it really will be special, because handwork will be virtually non-existent. Then there will be a revival – that’s what my hope is.

You imbibe a lot from the past.  What are some elements of adornment that you hold close to your heart — whether in craft or how we ready ourselves, that you wish to see preserved?

I just want to keep India alive.

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JJ Valaya is the Founder of JJ Valaya, based in New Delhi.