Menswear has traditionally been the largest segment in Indian retail though young brands catering to premium menswear are newer to the scene,  including KARDO, Suket Dhir and Lacquer Embassy from New Delhi. Founder and Creative Director Nikhil Sharma comes with a solid background in menswear design – he worked at Allen Solly, a large commercial menswear brand and was previously a stylist and trend forecaster in the UK. Conceived in 2013 as a brand for the contemporary dandyman, Lacquer Embassy has a strong focus on image and identity reflected consistently across both product and visual communication:

The Beginning  My primary design reference is the modern gentleman whose sensibility is clean, practical and fuss free. The outlook behind what he wears defines his style today, replacing the way brands have in the past. I have always favoured a strong graphic approach to design, and with Lacquer Embassy, it comes through in singular prints and patterns combined with meticulous tailoring. From simpler gingham tailored shirts to a top hat and dog-print shirt, I’m interested in providing wardrobe solutions for men in diverse settings. Our designs are interchangeable from formal to casual, day to night. The aesthetics of the brand fit our new, contemporary lifestyles which necessitate laid back, unfussy silhouettes with elements of luxury. Shock value has no place in our designs—I prefer an understated approach for the well-groomed modern man who likes a sense of individualism in the way he dresses.

Above: source | Lacquer Embassy Spring/Summer 2015 Lookbook 

I grew up living in several cities around India, my education spread between about 10 schools. I also studied in Bhutan for three years at a school with 18 students. I later attended NIFT for Fashion Design and then completed a Masters at NTU, Nottingham, in the UK. It wasn’t clothes or sewing particularly that drew me to fashion. I was attracted to it as a medium to explore and eventually, find my calling somewhere within its parameters.

My career in menswear design began in the UK for British high street brands like Chilli Pepper and Poetic Gem. I soon realised that while I loved designing clothes I also enjoyed putting looks together, providing creative direction from concept to layout. I gradually started to freelance as a stylist and consultant for trend forecasting agencies alongside my regular job. Working with other types of creatives – photographers with amazing energy and vision – was so different from designing clothes and drafting tech-packs.

Above: source | Lacquer Embassy store and studio in Hauz Khas village, New Delhi

I did a stint of about two and a half years in Bangalore at Madura Garments but quit to return to the UK in peak recession time without a job and only a work permit. My decision, understandably, drew a lot of hesitation from my family and friends. It took me six months of calling every recruitment agency I found, but a year later I was working at NEXT, traveling to a new city every second week for work and inspiration. It was quite a journey, which taught me that things work themselves out if one keeps doing what he does best and is strong enough not to compromise.

Work took me on inspirational trips to Berlin, LA, New York, Amsterdam, and Antwerp, and factory visits to Colombo, Istanbul and Dhaka. I was absorbing everything like a sponge and honing my skills. These travels and exposure expanded my knowledge, sensitivity and gave me a rounded perspective on consumerism.

Moving back to India from the UK was somewhat difficult because I had gotten used to the work culture in the British high street and my lifestyle in London was quite settled. Still, I did not want to wake up one day and wonder why I never started something of my own. India’s growing, dynamic market made me yearn to return and set up a base here. I can be quite a planner on one hand and extremely impulsive on the other. I decided to move back so I could give structure to my vision and offer it to the evolving menswear market here.

Above: source | Belmont Avenue 2014 Lookbook

My label, Lacquer Embassy, was born out of a desire to realize the aesthetics I have cultivated throughout my travels, life experiences and my own experiments in style. After a decade of accumulating interdisciplinary experience, I felt ready to offer a brand for men across India who, regardless of age, appreciate good design and strive for a better quality of life.

Getting Started  My inclination has always been towards menswear. I wasn’t interested in women’s clothing at all; I think it comes with ease for me to design what I would wear myself. For my first collection in September 2013, I designed silk pocket squares of my own artwork and patterns, and styled a shoot around them. Internationally, many labels specialize in making one product beautifully, but not many here understood how I was planning to start out with just one category and build a universe around it.

Following a great market response, I added more product categories which has grown to a sizeable number. We now offer men’s shirts, trousers, suits, handcrafted ties and bow ties, scarves, tote bags, travel pouches and bespoke shoes. Along with our ecommerce site, our flagship store is in Hauz Khas Village, and we are available in stores like Evoluzione, Aza and Taj Khazana.

I think my biggest challenge is when people request Indian wear like kurtas and sherwanis, which I refuse to do at this stage. It is difficult for a customer in India especially to digest that my store does not have these staple menswear products. But being true to the brand, I am unable to offer these categories. I have a very simple analogy for them: “If I make good pasta, I don’t think my biryani would taste as good.”

Above: Lacquer Embassy pocket squares and tote bags

Growth  I would like our impact to be more than just momentary peaks in a graph – and instead, an organic, steady and solid growth. The retail sector is evolving constantly and the consumer is deeply varied, so maintaining a certain standard helps define the brand. Product quality and meeting deadlines is as important as design. Despite increasing orders, there is no compromise in these areas.

Consumer perceptions of brands have changed radically. Everything is interpreted in the flash of a picture or video on your smartphone. For instance, we constantly share curated product mixes on our Instagram feed which people can use as cues for purchase. We infuse a sense of storytelling in our posts, shoots, and editorials to facilitate a virtual relationship with our customers. 

I enjoy this virtual unspoken connection with all the people following the brand. It fosters loyalty, but also means that we keep pushing creative boundaries that people can identify with. We have been approached or visited at our store because of a dynamic digital dialogue.

Organization  The element of luxury in my products is furthered by our branding and visual communication. I have a clear definition of my preferences which translates in our visuals. We brainstorm to come up with ideas and tear-outs which are segregated into designated classifications. I like to work with a labelled archive so that I am aware of the end point and split all the information we have into compact folders. 

With our office and store in the same location, my regular day starts with making sure the space looks immaculate. I then check on store orders, deliveries, client meetings, press inquiries, product ranges, and social media planning. Checklists are something I work with constantly. My satisfaction that the day has been conquered comes with ticking off and completing a task.

I make sure that my team is aware of its responsibilities. Deliverables are specified at each level, so everyone knows what is expected of them individually and collectively. But every team member also finds ample opportunities to hone their areas of interest and flourish along with the label. I am always ready to sharpen my own organizational skills, to allocate responsibilities and resources more efficiently among my co-workers.

Above: source | still from the film ‘Everything is Illuminated’

References  Jack&Jil   Esquire  The Selby  Trendland  Bloginity  Kinfolk  National Geographic

Pedro Almodovar, Calvin & Hobbes, Neville Brody. I love listening to Vampire Weekend, Bombay Bicycle Club and Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs. I watched TEED perform once  and was amazed with his music as much as his headgear.

Above: image | Nikhil Sharma  source | taken in New York City

Travelling has been a very important part of my life. Having lived in so many places, I have never felt like I belong to a particular city. It has left me with a constant longing for change—the thought of settling down in one city makes me restless even today.

If I made a list of favourites of brands I admire, Acne, APC, Wings + Horns and Saturdays NYC would be on it. Apart from their products, visual communication and design sensibility, they have a quiet authority which is very appealing. Raf Simons and Martin Margiela are among the designers I truly respect for their simplicity in thought combined with the strongest intent.

Above: images | Gary David Moore for DANSK Magazine; Kid Acne at Concrete Hermit, London; Dior Homme by Bruno Werzinski for Hunter Magazine

Even if they aren’t famous, self-made people are always inspiring. I’ve learnt valuable lessons from my tailors and craftsmen, their dedication towards work and sense of contentment. They take great pride and joy in their work. My family, close friends, and team have been very inspiring for my work as well.

Designing x Styling Putting looks together, envisioning a mood board, and collaborating with other artists —styling offers a creative high very different from designing. Some of my work has appeared in indie journals and coffee-table books like XOXO Istanbul, Vanity Teen, Boys by Girls, Fashionisto, and Candid.

Originality is a challenge. You put work into a new concept, till you suddenly come across an Instagram feed based on a similar thought and have to start all over. Menswear can be particularly restrictive which makes it a bigger challenge to validate original concepts. It’s uncontrollable — but the trick is to infuse your brand of uniqueness into an original reference point.

Above: image | Noel McLaughlin for Candid Magazine, styled by Nikhil Sharma

When I started my brand, I continued styling menswear for ads and domestic brands. As Lacquer Embassy began to expand and distribution demands increased, styling took a backseat. Now that the brand is more settled, I have the freedom to take on other projects. I love designing layouts and graphics and look at it as an opportunity to revive freshness and uniqueness in our label. I have been approached to design for others which is an opportunity to experiment with diverse aesthetics. I love to observe and collaborate with young, new creative professionals who have the ability to work without worrying about the pressure of commercial viability.

Above: image | Cecilie Harris for Boys By Girls, styled by Nikhil Sharma

Menswear The segment is growing in India. I’m amazed at how every new day acquaints me to people from different cities across the country who are adopting our brand. I have had people fly in from towns I have never heard of and order clothes and shoes. While trying them on they have taken out metal shoe horns from their pockets to try out the shoes.

I do feel that there aren’t enough independent multi-designer menswear stores in India which cater to the premium market. But the space is evolving and the next few years will hopefully bring more offerings to the segment. Menswear is becoming much more creative with men making an effort to dress with personality. It has entered a dynamic phase in the last two years and hopefully Lacquer Embassy will contribute to this growth in its own unique way.

Above: image | Lacquer Embassy Spring/Summer 2015 Lookbook

Work History  Lacquer Embassy: Founder, New Delhi, September 2013 – present  Next: Senior Menswear Designer, London Poetic Gem: Designer, London   Trendstop: Freelance Consultant, London Madura Garments (Allen Solly): Head of Urban Casuals, Bangalore  Chilli Pepper, Redditch: Menswear Designer, UK