Antar-Agni is a young brand, already recognised for its draped silhouettes and patronage by both men and women alike – it’s not uncommon to find women shopping for themselves from the menswear collection. An interview with its designer, Ujjwal Dubey:

The beginning > The technical side of things always fascinated me. The workings of suspensions and hydraulics in automobiles, for example, and architecture particularly. Buildings like IIM Ahmedabad, the Kolkata Metro (dated 1984) and NIFT Kolkata (inspired by Piet Mondrian’s art) come to mind. I often looked at bridges and buildings, perplexed at the strength and might of such structures. Although I was interested in public spaces, furniture and sustainable product design, I never understood the real meaning of the word ‘design’ until I got into NIFT in 2006.

I used to think that if a design is not functional then it’s really not a good one. It was much later that I realized the value of aesthetics.

Brought up in a small city in eastern U.P. called Gorakhpur, one thing was clear in my mind: I wanted to study extensively – a post graduation or PhD – and become an honest, influential personality like my great grandfather (who had a strong sense of social responsibility) and mother (a doctor whose dedication to duty and consistency saw her working odd hours, sometimes singlehandedly). 

Above: image | Antar-Agni A/W 2014

Since I was interested in architecture I applied to many courses, but got through none. During that period a friend who was in NIFT told me about the courses it offered, where I got through in the first attempt. I was advised to study textile design by my friend – I was too naïve to make a decision on my own at the time. Although the course did not seem as detailed as I thought it would be initially, I later started to enjoy it. The rigorous structure of the course had a great impact which has helped me navigate the industry as well.

What I really liked was the exposure and versatility: I traveled to Australia through an exchange programme at the Queensland University of Technology (QUT) in Brisbane. It changed my thought process, opening my mind to a new culture and a new way of living. I loved the framework of the city and its surroundings, the way that public spaces were designed to ease the daily routine of its people, and how they in turn treated and appreciated it.

Above: image | Antar-Agni Spring/Summer 2015

After graduating in 2010, I began working for designers Shantanu and Nikhil on their sportswear collaboration for Adidas. Two years into my job, they decided to branch into menswear. The challenge was that menswear requires a more technical level of tailoring, and I was a novice. I started detailed research on its intricacies; though it took some time to digest, it gave me a good deal of confidence. 

It obviously differed from architecture in various aspects but what was similar was that you need to have an eye for detail. That’s where my interest in menswear emerged. 

Taking the plunge > Working continuously on menswear for 1.5 years, I began to realise my own style built around the things I connected to. I was curious, looking for more, constantly thinking, “What after this?” I decided to apply to the Gen Next program at Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) in 2014 and got through.

Above: image | Antar-Agni Spring/Summer 2014

I applied with just two ensembles, and started working on it fully only after the result was announced. I quit my job and started to concentrate on the new collection. I have no idea what ‘got me through’ but looking back I suppose it was a new look that I introduced through layers and wearable drapes for men. The concept of my first show came from Afghanistan – its people and natural landscape. I had been in awe of Kabul’s beauty, the way it’s described in The Kite Runner, for a long time since 2007. But I started growing an Afghani beard and wore relaxed fits to gain more belief in what I was going to showcase. I worked mostly on drapes, which became a signature of the brand later.

I wasn’t sure if things would work and if I should quit my job, but that’s when I was told by my boss, “If you’re doing it, then do it, there’s no looking back.” That convinced me to take the plunge. It was important to start on my own because I wanted to learn constantly and grow intellectually. I had this unending curiosity which pushed me and still does. 

Above: image | Ujjwal Dubey behind the scenes at AIFW Fall/Winter 2016

The response at LFW was good, and the overall experience was great. I had done it all, from working with a womenswear tailor for my debut menswear collection to setting up one machine at my rented house due to space constraints. The process taught me to push myself towards being a better human more than a better designer.

Such times find the best in you. I was on my own, and it was a time when I absolutely needed to believe in myself to get ahead. I pushed myself to the limit and the results made me stronger, more genuine, more ethical. The approach towards every minute thing changed. That is what kept me balanced in most situations.

I also recognised that I wasn’t a true creative – I only work on belief and spontaneity. I don’t think I am a ‘fashion’ designer either; just a designer. I’m a somewhat spiritually inclined person who loves mythology, history, reading about influential people, reading what they used to read, photographers, musicians and their stories, theatre. I believe that whatever happens is for good, and I live by words from the Gita. It gives me strength to cope when things do not go my way and also keeps me grounded when they do.

Above: image | Antar-Agni F/W 2016

People > Nikhil from Shantanu and Nikhil has been a great inspiration. My other role models are Aneeth Arora from Pero, Damir Doma and Yohji Yamamoto. 

A (social) statement > I keep myself in mind constantly during the design process because it helps me believe in the things I create. The whole focus is on individuality and personality. The man I design for is confident, stable, unbothered with an admirable personality. I would define him as more stylish than fashionable. Menswear is a small and challenging category, and I feel there is a huge void. I am trying to add a different dimension to it and reduce the gap.

I’m more comfort and personality driven. Anything that keeps you comfortable, confident, with the right attitude and also speaks of your personality becomes a statement on its own. I don’t believe in carrying something just because it’s trendy. 

Above: image | Antar-Agni Fall Winter 2016

Our clothes are essentially unisex and 30% of my clients are women who end up choosing from our menswear collection. Lately anti-fit clothing has become trendy and women love these easy silhouettes. What was surprising with women was that in most cases there was no second thought. After our first season, we started doing a small line of womenswear as well, mostly converting menswear pieces into womenswear pieces. I focus on individuality here as well – a women who is not hesitant.

Work history >
Antar-Agni: Founder and Designer, New Delhi. March 2014 – present
Shantanu & Nikhil: Senior Design Executive, New Delhi. June 2010 – February 2014